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KENYA

Route: Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Nairobi

ROUTE INFO

• We tried to cut through to avoid the A104, but the road was closed. We backtracked and joined the A104.

• We turned right onto Airport North Road. We did actually cut through an estate along this road and it felt a little dodgy. Instead we should have stuck to Airport North Road and took a left at the roundabout, onto the road Wonderhouse Homestay is on.

Accommodation

Wonderhouse Homestay. Booked on booking.com for £17 per night. Meals were very expensive. We were allowed to use the kitchen to prepare our own meals. There’s a shopping mall 30 mins walk away, which has a big Tusky’s supermarket, pharmacy and a little food court. The guesthouse is in Baraka estate, which is a secure compound with armed guards. We locked our bikes in the gated alley of the guesthouse.

Water (filtered & purified)

Kitchen tap at Wonderhouse Homestay. 

notes

• If you’re flying in and your flight arrives after dark, just jump in a taxi. It is not advisable to cycle into Nairobi at night. 

• There’s a Safaricom stand in the arrivals area. You just need your passport to sign up. We got 5 GB for $10 and paid in cash and it turned out to be the same price everywhere else.

Route: Nairobi > Limuru Town

ROUTE INFO

• Leaving our homestay we picked up the A104, which had a decent hard shoulder. 

• From the A104 we joined the Southern Bypass. This skirts south of Nairobi centre and also had a decent hard shoulder. It goes ‘through’ Nairobi National Park briefly (there’s an electric fence between you and the reserve), but the chances of seeing a wild animal so close to the main road is very slim. You do get a fantastic city skyline view of Nairobi though. 

• When the Southern Bypass ends you join the A104 again, this time however, there’s not much of a hard shoulder – if any at all.

Accommodation

Kiboko Highway Hotel. A room was 1,500 Kenyan Shilling. We asked to camp in their grounds, but it was the same price as the room. We were allowed to cook our own meals and brew morning coffee in the little garden in front of our room. The hotel is in a secure compound and there’s night security. We stored our bikes in the room; it was a tight squeeze.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

Bathroom tap at Kiboko Highway Hotel.

notes

• We had lunch at Crave Kitchen in Kikuyu. It was a recommended by a cyclists we met on the ride. They had a great brunch menu at very affordable prices.

Route: LimurU > Lake Naivasha 

ROUTE INFO

• You have two options here, you can take the A104 to Naivasha, or the Old Road. We decided to take the old road.

• Before we set off, we popped into Limuru centre to get cash from Barclays ATM, which accepts Mastercard. We also stocked up on a few essentials from Naivasha Supermarket, which is next door.

• Then we picked up the B3. This descends into the Rift Valley – the views are amazing. There’s plenty of places to pull over for a picture. There’s also a generous hard shoulder, which will keep you out of the way of trucks; it’s a main trucking route.

• Turning off the B3, you join the C88, which is minor road. There’s still a hard shoulder, but traffic is reduced.

• We were heading to the south edge of the lake and so we took a left onto Moi S Lake Road once we reached Lake Naivasha. There’s a supermarket called Ndungi along here. This road is pretty rough to ride, but very wide and quiet. You’ll cycle past a sanctuary where you’ll likely see zebra and giraffe from the road.

Accommodation

Camp Carnelly’s. It was 800 Kenyan Shilling per person per night to camp in your own tent. The camp area had a fantastic view of the lake, which is famous for hippo watching. We were sat eating dinner watching hippos eating their dinner. There’s also hot showers and an outside sink, although the water comes from the lake, so we used treated water to wash our dishes. Be wary of the vervet monkeys, they will steal your food – do not put food waste in the bin closest to you tent.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

There’s a water ATM in the little village just outside of Camp Carnelly’s. They sell 1 litre of processed water for 5 KES.

Route: Lake Naivasha > Maiella 

ROUTE INFO

• Leaving Camp Carnelly’s, we carried on along the south edge of Lake Naivasha on Moi S Lake Road. It’s tarmac until you reach Kongoni, where there are a few small shops. Keep your eyes peeled for wild giraffe just before your reach Kongoni. 

• We took a left at Kongoni and headed towards Maiella. Since it was dry season the road was think, powdery mud. We often had to push and we both fell off the bikes. Double check the road conditions with locals during rain season. At some point, this road runs along the very edge of Hell’s Gate National Park; there were a few baboons running around, so just be careful.

• You’ll pass through a few small villages before you reach Maeilla.

Accommodation

Maiella Polytechnic (it’s not labelled on the map, but that’s the location). Having asked in the previous village if there was somewhere secure to camp, we were directed to the police station at Maiella. Once there we asked the Chief, who said we could camp behind his station. It also happened to be in the same grounds as Maiella Polytechnic. We had the most wonderful afternoon and morning with the students. They said our friends would be welcome to stay, if you found yourself in that area.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

We had carried 24 litres from the water ATM at Lake Naivasha. There was a water tap at the school. 

Route: Maiella > Narok

route info

• This ride was meant to be 8 km shorter. We got considerably lost exiting Maiella. Don’t miss the turn off for Narok; it’s not signed post, but locals will surely point you in the right direction.

• Upon leaving Maeilla on the correct road, you’ll find a 5 km steep uphill. We had to push it was so steep. Then you have rolling hills at the tops. This is all off-road. There isn’t much in the way of food along this section. We did find a little shop selling bread.

• About 5 km before you join the B3, tarmac will appear (your bum will be pleased).

• Once you reach the B3, it’s about 35 km to Narok. It’s pretty rolling all the way and you’re sure to see lots of baboons.

Accommodation

Maendeleo Parkview Hotel. A room with breakfast was 1,000 Kenyan Shilling, without it was 800. We were allowed to store the bikes in the room, as there was plenty of space. The hotel has a little restaurant, which is very reasonably priced – the beef stew is delicious.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

Bathroom tap at Maendeleo Parkview Hotel.

NOTES

• Narok is the last main town before you enter Maasai Mara. You’ll find pretty much anything you needed here. We stocked-up on food at Naivasha Supermarket; we found this cheaper than Tusky’s. There’s also a Barclays Bank ATM, which accepts Mastercard. And of course, lots of cheap restaurants and bars.

Route: Narok to Lemek 

route info

• *WARNING* if you do cycle to Maasai Mara National Reserve, do so at your own risk. The threat of wild animals is real.

• Leave Narok on the B3 and continue along here for roughly 30 km. You’ll pass through Ololulung, which was a relatively big village with a few shops and restaurants. We spotted wild zebra along the B3.

• Turn off onto the C13. You won’t see tarmac for the next 200-ish km if you head to Maasai Mara National Reserve and back. It’s compact dirty, so very ridable – even with our skinnier tyres (1.75”).

Accommodation

Lemek. Since the government office was closed, we asked locals if there was somewhere safe we could camp in their village. Someone got onto the phone to local police officer, who came to meet us and said we could camp behind his house/office.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

We had carried 24 litres from Narok. Some villages run dry of water in the dry season and have to collect water from other water sources. We never actually asked if there was a working tap here, so make sure you have a little extra.

notes

• If you don’t camp in the village, just be very wary of animals. Locals told us wild elephants and big cats roam in the nearby hills during the night.

Route: Lemek to TAlek

ROUTE INFO

• *WARNING* if you do cycle to Maasai Mara National Reserve, do so at your own risk. The threat of wild animals is real.

• Continue along the C13. The road gets rocky from here on in, so our pace was much slower and we skidded quite a bit. There was even a few points we just got off and pushed.

• Turn left onto the C14; this road will take you all the way to Talek. Villages and farms get fewer from here. The road is still very rocky – and even gets worse in sections. Plenty of safari cars will pass you, with gawping tourists wondering what the hell you are doing. About 20 km from Talek we cycled past a hyena on our way out, so be extra vigilant (this is actually marked on the map as a conservancy). Also be careful around wildebeest and buffalo. You will literally cycle to the gate of the national reserve before you reach camp.

Accommodation

Aruba Mara Camp. It was 800 Kenyan Shilling per person per night to pitch a tent. They offer a half-day safari for €30 per person – the morning is said to be better (it costs $80 per person per 24 hours to enter Maasai Mara National Reserve). Be warned, Aruba Mara charge in euros, only accept cash, and provide their own exchange rate – that includes their bar and restaurant menu, too. There’s 24 hour hot showers and night security. We locked our bikes to a tree.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

Bathroom tap at Aruba Mara.

NOTES

• Talek is a lovely little village. There’s a few shops that stock basics like bread and veg. There’s also a few little restaurants, a bar, petrol station, KCB Bank (accepts Mastercard), and a Safaricom shop.

• We cooked all of our meals at Aruba Mara to save money. An impala did come into camp, however, and eat most of our supplies. When we weren’t in the tent, we were told to store our food bag in their kitchen, as baboons have been known to raid tents. We did have to chase a family of baboons off with a stick when we were cooking dinner.

Route: TAlek to Kileleoni Primary School

ROUTE INFO

• *WARNING* if you do cycle to Maasai Mara National Reserve, do so at your own risk. The threat of wild animals is real.

• You’ll essentially backtrack today on the C14. As I mentioned above, we cycled past a hyena about 20 km after Talek, so be very careful cycling through this area; it’s marked as a conservancy on the map.

• You’ll briefly go back onto the C13 before turning to rejoin the C14 again. The road is rough and rocky the whole way and you’ll be cycling at a slight incline as you exit Maasai Mara. It was a long, slow day.

Accommodation

Kileleoni Primary School. This isn’t on the map, but you’ll see the right turn off for the village shortly after the sign for Fairmont Mara Safari Club, which I’ve linked to. This village and school are set up for private tours in partnership with high-end hotels in the area – like the Fairmont. Although we were welcomed to stay, we we pandered to go on a village tour with a local Maasai boy. Also meeting the kids felt very staged. In retrospect, we would have cycled on and camped elsewhere.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

We carried 24 litres of water from Aruba Mara. There was a water tap at Kileleoni Primary School.

notes

• There is a rhino sanctuary and hot spring next to the school, although we didn’t visit them. Since it was all set up for touring, we expected we’d have to pay to visit those, too.

Route: Kileleoni Primary School to Chebole

route info

• *WARNING* if you do cycle to Maasai Mara National Reserve, do so at your own risk. The threat of wild animals is real.

• After leaving the school on the C14, we took a left roughly 1 km down the road. This unnamed road weaved through small villages, like Siongiroi. We cycled here in dry season – even cycling up a dry riverbed – I suspect the roads will be a lot different in rainy season so double check with locals.

• We eventually joined Chebole - Makimeny Road, which was mostly tarmacked. This road joins with the B3 at Chebole.

Accommodation

Lembus Hotel. It was 1,000 Kenyan Shilling for a room. The room was tiny and pretty gross, but we were so thankful for a hot shower. The hotel had a small restaurant, which had a reasonably priced menu. There was also some secure window bars that we could lock the bikes to.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

Bathroom tap at Lembus Hotel.

Route: Chebole to Kericho

route info

• Leaving Chebole on the B3, you continue for 15 km before turning right onto the C23. Both roads are tarmacked and in good condition. You’ll be on the C23 for roughly 45 km to Kericho. The ride was quite hilly.

Accommodation

La Serene Resort Hotel. We had pre-booked on booking.com. It was £11.50 per night. They tried to charge us more when we arrived, so make sure you have your booking confirmation handy. They also tried to charge us more when we checked out, claiming we had stayed in an upgraded room, so make sure you double check your booking at check-in. Also, booking.com puts the hotel in the centre of Kericho, when in fact it’s about 3.5 km outside. There’s not much around, so you’re forced to eat at their restaurant. Luckily we had some food and cooked dinners on the balcony.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

Kitchen tap in the hotel room.

NOTES

• Our hotel was out of town, but it was the cheapest. Depending on your budget, staying in Kericho would be the better option. You’ll be closer to shops, restaurants etc. It’s quite a big town.

Route: Kericho to Kisumu 

route info

• You’re pretty much on the B1 all the way to Kisumu now. There are some long-looking climbs, as well as a couple of well-deserved downhills. There’s a hard shoulder most of the way – watch out for the ‘speed bumps’ in the hard should.

• The B1 merges with the A1 just before you reach Kisumu and the change of pace in traffic is noticeable, so be careful.

Accommodation

Mona Lisa Guest House. We paid 1,000 Kenyan Shilling for a room. There was somewhere secure to lock the bikes and a hot shower. You’re pretty central, so there are plenty of shops and restaurants around. Kisumu is a big city, so you’ll find pretty much anything you need here.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

We filtered water from the bathroom tap.

notes

• We had tried to camp at Impala Park Campsite, but on arrival learned that it was $20 per person per night for a non-resident. Obviously we couldn’t afford that.

Route: Kisumu to Simenya

route info

• You continue on the B1 (Kisumu - Busia Road) all the way to the border now. Considering it’s the main road to one of the main border crossing with Uganda, it was pretty quiet. Road quality was mostly good. Keep your eyes peeled for the equator sign – you’ll head into the northern hemisphere on this ride.

Accommodation

Simenya Health Centre. We asked to camp in the hospital grounds and were made to feel very welcome. Peter, the Chief Medical Officer, gave us a tour of the facilities, which was really interesting. A few of the staff live on-site with their kids, too, so we got to meet them. We had a great evening camping here. There was night security.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

There’s a water tap at the back of the hospital field, which we filtered from. Actually the water ran so clear – probably the cleanest-looking water we’ve filtered so far.

Route: Simenya to Busia (BORDER TOWN)

ROUTE INFO

• Still on that B1!

Accommodation

We crossed into Uganda and camped at Rand Hotel in Busia Uganda. They charged 45,600 Ugandan Shilling to pitch our tent. We were allowed to cook our own meals and use a shower in one of the unoccupied rooms.

Water (FILTERED & PURIFIED)

We asked in the hotel kitchen to fill up from their tap.

NOTES

• There are more guesthouses on the Kenyan side of Busia, if you find you arrive there late and the border is closed.

• Kenyan and Ugandan Immigration are in the same building. We thought we had skipped Kenyan Immigration, but we hadn’t.

• In Busia Uganda there’s a Stanbic Bank, which states it only takes Visa, but it actually accepted our Mastercard. There’s also an official Airtel dealer, where you can get a Ugandan SIM card. Busia Uganda felt more dodgy…

UGANDA